Thursday 26 Sept Las Herrerias to Biduedo 18 km
Today marked the start of the last week on the Camino as well as the last section of real sustained vertical rise of any significant length. There would be more uphill treks in days to come for sure, but none that would set the tone for a particular day. So off we set shortly after 7:00 am to take on the first climb in the dark. Again it was a very steep pitch to the path, on an irregular surface of dirt and large boulders. The route was lined with trees that created an effect like you were walking in a pitch black cave, with only light being that of the headlamps. By the time we reached the top of the this section the first shards of daylight were starting to show through. Unfortunately, there was no open coffee spot at the first town La Faba, and we had to continue on another 3 km to find one in La Laguna. Man, you begin to depend on the psychological lift and caffeine boost to keep the morning fires running.
The uphill climb continued for a full 8.5 km, somewhat challenging but far from the most difficult we encountered. As usual we were treated to spectacular scenery, and all took
many opportunities to stare and draw upon the energy that emanated from it. This is probably the biggest thing I will take away from the entire journey, that the earth emits a real and tangible energy force that one can harness if you are open too it. It started in the Pyrenees on day two and has continued all the way through.
The uphill climb continued for a full 8.5 km, somewhat challenging but far from the most difficult we encountered. As usual we were treated to spectacular scenery, and all took
many opportunities to stare and draw upon the energy that emanated from it. This is probably the biggest thing I will take away from the entire journey, that the earth emits a real and tangible energy force that one can harness if you are open too it. It started in the Pyrenees on day two and has continued all the way through.
After about a three hour walk we arrived at the prize in the crackerjack box 8.5 km out, the village of O Cebrerio. This was one cool spot and as we were to find out, holds a special significance on the Camino.
The main focal point of the village is the medieval reconstructed Iglesia de Santa Maria la Real church, built on the remains of the oldest remaining fully intact structure on the Camino de Santiago. Some of the key church artifacts are from the original medieval church, and legend has it that the holy grail was hidden away here at one time. I don't know about that but I will say categorically that the church had a real vibe to it and seemed to bring a strong reaction to many of the pilgrim believers there. One of our pilgrim friends, Laura a yoga instructor from Woodstock, NY (seen with her partner Adam in the picture to the left) was so wrought with emotion that she was in tears for half an hour, tears of joy.
It was also at this church that another of my most special moments of the journey occurred. At the desk where we obtained our Camino passport stamps, Judy had left her camera. In line behind her I recognized it, and told the attendant I would get it to the owner. Seeing Judy at the front of the church I walked to her and was about to hand it over when I realized she was in prayer in front of the candles. Not wanting to disturb her I stood and watched, and was overwhelmed by the moment: the look of absolute joy on her face; eyes closed and head back and a radiance surrounding her. This was a woman with an abiding faith, someone who gathered comfort from that faith and projected it back to the world on a daily basis in the form of a open heart, smiling face and compassion to everyone she met. I truly felt happy for her at this point, and for the rest of us as benefactors of that kind soul. This moment I will not forget soon.
Another noteworthy item of this church is from a local priest Father Elias Valina Sampredo who was a big player in reviving the Camino and bringing the pilgrimage back to popularity. According to the info in the church, the Father came up with the idea for the yellow arrows we all used to find our way along the Camino. I for one commend him for that as we get lost often enough even with the arrows. Can't imagine how they ever found their way without them.
The rest of the day was relatively uneventful, gradually making our way down hill for another 10 km taking us to the village of Biduedo. And the word village is used loosely as there were only a few buildings here, two of which were private Casas for pilgrims. Casa Quiroga was small but had everything we needed: place to hang laundry, our own bed in our own room, a pilgrims meal and beer and wine, and even cows on the front lawn. Oh, and of course, no WIFI. Everyone was to bed early as tomorrow we reached Sarria and the last 100 km of the journey.
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