This was likely the easiest day of the entire Camino, everyone knew it, and everyone approached it so. Up a little bit late, walked at a leisurely pace, and I am pretty sure we took every opportunity presented to stop for a coffee or beer. Thoroughly enjoyable all round.
Today's walk had two options, the shortest version that followed beside the road the entire route, and another section that meandered along treed areas and an irrigationchannel. The alternate path was a softer natural one, easy on the feet, and ample opportunities for shade. So Judy, Mary Lou, Will, Nick and I all headed out, but not before we stopped for a coffee and croissant.
Nick and Judy are from Auburn, New York, both now retired , Nick from a career in the New York State corrections field, and Judy from teaching. After spending a full day with them, you couldn't imagine a nicer couple. Absolutely a joy to be around. They had a neat experience a little over a week into the walk. By luck or coincidence they ended up having dinner one evening at the home of a local who took them out to a recently discovered archaeological dig...a 5th century church that had two bodies in crypts. A very powerful moment for them.
On the first section I walked with Judy and had some great conversations on many issues, including the Camino. We each had many examples of weird things and coincidences that have happened since starting the walk, but neither was sure if we were just more attuned to things happening around us without the usual day to day distractions, or if this place actually was somewhat magical. I am still a man of science but after all, we are all just energy, and who knows what happens.
As we walked and talked Judy and I seemed to be on the same page. Many people say that the Camino changes you, not sure I agree. Sure, many change after walking the Camino, but they are changing themselves. The Camino provides all individuals who take the journey an uninterrupted opportunity for clarity of thought, and enough challenge and intrigue to be the catalyst for change. But its the heart that truly changes a person, not something mystical....I think.
As we frolicked along, there was much laughter, coffee and even a beer or two. At Villacazar de Sirga the stop was at a bar just outside a Templar church. As with most of these the architecture was spectacular, and the building rundown. While on break, Theresa and Judy from San Francisco, two very happy go lucky ladies we met the night before, joined us. Theresa mentioned that she was here celebrating her 60 th birthday. As that was the fifth person to tell me that in the past two weeks I said. " there's a lot of you old dolls out here." She laughed and Will asked me how I got away saying stuff like that. Just a nack I guess.
We pulled into Carion and had to continue into town as the target alberque was already full, and ended up at Espirtu Santo, a facility attached to a church/convent. We were checked in by a real nun, the first we have actually seen on the Camino. The setup was typically Spanish, completely walled on the outside with a central court. We relaxed in the hot afternoon sun with an assortment of beverages.
That evening after a short tour of town, while heading to our restaurant of choice, we rounded a corner and ran smack dab into the Freddy girls whom we hadn't seen for three days. They had put in a grueling 32 km day previously and were back on the same track as us. What a pleasant surprise. Before long the two groups hooked up over a peligrino dinner and had a great evening together, before heading back to beat the 10 pm curfew. Those nuns don't mess around, and if you are outside after exactly 10 pm, have a nice sleep in the streets without your backpack.
Distance travelled 20.5 km
Time 6 hrs
Weather Warm and sunny
Distance remaining. 414 km
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