It's interesting the difference in service you get at different establishments in Spain. Some places it is lightning fast, some places it is very friendly but moving at a slower pace, and then there are the occasional "why are you bothering me" attitudes. After another great night of sleep, we headed out just before seven, and quickly found our spot for cafe and snack. Great setup and the pastries looked delicious. We ordered two coffees and a chocolate croissant to share, which the señora proceeded to get without looking up, and without stopping her conversation with another lady in the cafe.. "No señora, dos cafe con leche, por favor". She got the second one still looking away, and we repeated this for the crossiant. Never got a look from her. But man were they tasty and that is the point. OK, that wasn't the point, but its what mattered.
It had rained hard the night before leaving everything fresh in the morning, and water at some locations on the trail. The day started with a fairly steep climb, one of the few we would see Sat. Once we got to the top, the terrain changed to one of the most appealing yet. Gently rolling hills, vineyards and olive groves, a path lined by stone walls and hanging ivy, and a run through one of the coolest villages yet. Ran into our buddy Trevor again and we walked together for a while, until his knee held him back a bit.
Mary Lou had an interesting chat with a 38 year old from Australia, who has works in finance in various countries, currently in China. Seems she has recently completed a songwriting course from Berkley and wants to become a lyricist. She has submitted some of her work to contests and done quite well, and is wondering could it produce a living. Now there is a girl after my own heart. You meet all kinds of people, most with a story to tell.
This section of the Camino had a few areas where the old Roman roads and shelters were still in place. I don't know exactly when something goes from being historic to ancient, but whatever you call it, we saw it today. Mostly farmland and rolling hills, but with the heat and a few tough stretches, it proved a hard day. But we hit our first milestone early on....100 km.
I spent most of the day walking by myself, which suits me fine as it gives lots of good thinking time, and that is what I am here for. The conversations with a wide variety of people, often ventured to religion and spiritual beliefs. They are not the same, you can be both, or one or the other. What donned on me today, is this. Anything is possible, and who are we do ridicule others for their beliefs , OK, maybe the Scientologists. Here is what I know. Roughly 14 billion years ago, there was a great Big Bang. Haven't a clue what caused it, where it came from or if some divinty had a hand in it. But we were all the same back then, and everything you are now was screaming through space at unimaginable speeds and unimaginable energy. Every drop of energy produced back then is still around in one form or another. So as I looked down while walking, I wondered what series of unrelated events happened that I am walking on a stone, instead of being a stone. Energy in one form or another...so anything is possible!
The heat made the walk and time seem longer than it was, so by the time we dragged our butts into Estella, tired was an understatement. By luck, the first alberque, run by the municipality had thirteen beds left. Thinking they were doing us a favour, we got the attick which had only two beds. But that meant four flights everytime we wanted to use the ground floor, where everything happened. The lady who was booking everyone in bounded up the first flight of stairs to show us the room, expecting us to follow. Had to tell her " hold er" we can't move that quick. It was pathetic the two of us nanny stepping up the four floors, grunting and groaning the entire way.
Estella is similar to most other towns we passed: old buildings with ornate decorations, cobblestone streets and residents that disappear for a few hours every day. And cathedrals!!! Massive and old looking on the outside, immaculate and opulent on the inside. ML and I visited the main church, and even sat in the pughs, closed our eyes and waited for a sign. Nothing !!! At least not for me.
Distance 22 km
Time 5.5 hrs
Weather Overcast first half, hot and sunny second half
Distance left 785 km
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