For most people, the main battle they fight on the Camino is not fatigue, not the heat, not sore back or shoulders, but the feet. Blisters, cuts, bruises, torn toe nails, you name it. Everyone has their own pre walk foot preparation routine; applying band aids and second skin where required, application of Vaseline or some type of balm over the entire foot, then finally pulling on socks carefully to make sure your handiwork does not get damaged. Mary Lou bandages her three sprained toes together, holding them in place with duct tape. For my feet I take a long strip of duct tape and cover all the areas to keep the second skin from coming off on the walk. Right, important tip to pilgrims, bring duct tape, its does everything from being a medical supply to holding plugs in the wall. One thing I have noticed is that many people head out without stretching of any kind, something Mary Lou and I are careful, maybe not careful enough, to not forget. The last few days, we have not been as diligent. Well today, something other than my feet would fire a warning shot across the bough.
We all got an early morning start from Carrion after a quick cafe con leche with Will. Nick and Judy, who already had a full breakfast, were on the road knowing we would catch them. The walk today was a long one, and as one guide book called it " with a flat and featureless landscape". The initial stretch was 17 km has virtually no facilities along the way, making it necessary to carry a lot of water and food for a lunch. Now we did discover an enterprising local about half way through, who set up an outdoor barbecue filling the air with an enticing aroma. We had brought along a collection of bread, cheese, salami, chocolate and sardines, so this was lunch, but I did end up with a craving for something from he grill.
As we started down the hill to Caladailla de la Cueza at the end of the 17 K, my groin started firing shots of pain on the left side, letting me know I had neglected it, and that it was not pleased that all my focus had been on my feet. By the time I got down the hill, it was difficult to walk at all, and the worry started that this might be something that could bring it all down. One thing you will learn on the Camino, is that collectively every conceivable required drug or rub is available where four or more Pilgrims collect. So between the Freddy girls and our travelling crew, I was able to get up and move on. Just to make sure, a beer for the road was available at the local cafe. But a groin has a long memory, and tomorrow was another day.
Although the last ten kilometres was not an over challenging one, it was stinking hot, and that always wears one down. Because we did not have reservations, and there appeared to be a shortage of beds in Terradillos, Will took off ahead to track down a place to stay. After a few hair raising moments we ended up getting a room for three at Los Templarios alberque, while Nick and Judy had a double after calling ahead. At that point we decided it was best to use the $19 spanish phone purchased in Burgos for its intended use, and called ahead for next days reservations. The usual afternoon routine settled in, beer, wine and good conversation in the hot sun.
With no restaurant to speak of in town we opted for the peligrino dinner at the alberque, and ended up siting at a table with a unique collection of travelling mates, Eugene (English version of his name) a retired financial advisor from Spain, Valentina a very pretty fine arts teacher from Italy, and Pat a bright eyed waiter from Hamilton who spoke Portugese. The three of them have been walking together for about a week, and as they all spoke versions of the Romance languages, were able to converse. Valentina acted as the translator for those of us who only spoke Anglaise.
Eugene was a gruff individual, who reminded me of a retired cop or fishing boat captain. He had the best line of the night when I asked him what he did before retiring " I was a financial advisor, but I was not responsible for the crisis". He also had gave what I feel was one of the more touching moments on this trip to date. After being initially reluctant to tell us why he was on the Camino, he started his story in Spanish. Of course we did not understand what he was saying, but his loud voice lowered, his face tightened, and his eyes glistened as he spoke. I watched his face intently, listened to the inflection in his voice, and could tell that everything he said was heartfelt and the truth, or at the least the truth as he saw it. This is Valentina's translation....." I am not a very nice man, people do not like me, I have no friends, my family does not want to be with me, I am alone. My daughter who is a doctor said to me Dad, you need to buy a knapsack and go to the Camino de Santiago to learn to make friends and start with a clean slate, so here I am. I have met many people, many younger than me that seem to like me and I like them. You people, I thank you as when we talk you look me in the eyes and do not look away as others do because they are not really interested in hearing me speak". I believe this man will leave the Camino changed.
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