Mary Lou and my daughter Jennifer embarked on a trip to Manchu Pichu in 2011. She is no stranger to climbing. " There is a difference between the Andes and the Pyrenees. The Andes are more majestic, much more so, but these mountains.....have a feel of their own, a feminine feel to them." She couldn't have been more right.
As agreed with our bunk mates it was lights on at 6 am. Not a problem for me as I was sitting outside on a lawn chair since 1 am. Guess my circadian rhythm had not yet adjusted. So just blogged a little, did some deep thinking and breathed the fresh mountain air. When breakfast was served at 7, we were packed and ready to go, walking today with our new friend Trevor, who hails from north of London.
Today's journey was a known unknown. Yesterday's 8 km with a 600 m rise was dwarfed by what lie ahead, 19 km and 800 m rise. Yesterday was, lets say tough. How would today be?
It was different from the start. Straight up, yes. But there was a spring in my step. The asphalt road wound its way along the side slope of the mountain; surrounded by lush green pastures, that fed a plethora of cattle, horses and sheep. Watch your step by the way. For five km straight it was up up up, without any of the usual short respite of flat slopes. But today, not even a hint of tire weariness from the previous day. At first the reason was simple enough for me, we left early and it was cool. But as the sun rose higher, and the morning grew older, the spring was still there. It finally hit me.when my legs needed a break, I turned to look at the mountain vista surrounding us, and the tiredness left. After a few of these stops, I began to feel the energy surge through me, and I don't just mean adrenaline, I mean feel a surge of energy throughout my body. By the end of the day we would walk over twice the distance of yesterday, in only one and a half more hours. And there were some tough climbs.
The first twelve km were up, with short sections of down taking us to the highest point on the Canino. Lots to see on this stretch, stunning vistas, an old Roman garrison location overlooking the vast valleys below, soaring eagles, livestock of all kinds, and many other pilgrims. ML spent some time walking with some young ladies from Franklin College in New Hampshire who were walking the Camino as a study term. People from all over: USA, New Zealand, Australia, Scotland, you name it. Everyone is uber friendly,and anxious to share the Camino experience with others.
About halfway up the climb ML told one of the people she was walking with that she craved a banana, as it felt like her potassium level was down. Lo and behold, abut half a km around the bend was " the last available food on the French side of the border". And yes, he sold bananas. Ask and the Canino shall give.
Once at the peak, there was about a five km section that ran through the woods along the ridge, before the steep descent to Roncesvale began. It was quite interesting, as the moment we entered the woods, my energy level dropped suddenly, and the relatively flat terrain became a struggle. Wasn't much more than a walk in the woods, though there were a few interesting things; Charlemagne's fountain, trees that looked right out of a horror movie and a sense that there had been some great battles along this route.
After what one pilgrim called " one last peak just to test you" you stared down on the tiny village of Roncesvale. We had been walking up for the previous four and a half hours and 15.5 km, and over the next 3.5 km we needed to get back down. There are two routes: the longer one that was less steep and the original, more dangerous one, straight down through the woods. We headed straight down. Have to say, not fun. The walking sticks had to carry me all,the way, and I thank the stars that it wasn't wet. But we made it, and you literally stumble out of the bushes and right before you is the huge monastery we would be staying in. On a sad note, at the bottom of the hill was a small monument to a female pilgrim who died on the walk in March this year.
The Refugio's at the monastery was surprisingly modern, with electrical outlets and clusters of two bunk bed pods. Had another great " peligrino dinner", this time soup, trout and French fries ( variation on fish and chips). Into bed at 9, and as was yesterday, woke up at 1 and can't sleep. Hence an on time blog.
Oh yes. Forgot about today's karma event. The previous night I watched five ladies trying to take group pics using time delay on all their cameras. Well, that leads to bad pictures and that is just not right. So I went over and played photographer for them. Today on the walk down, I lost my glasses somewhere. About an hour and a half after we got here, was when I noticed, remarking to Mary Lou that it left me two pairs "cause that pair was goners". We left the monastery to head for a drink, which took us by the end of he trail. The photo girls were just finishing as we passed, and said a quick hello, then the one from Scotland said " you didn't lose a pair of glasses did you. Found these in the woods at the top of the trail". Hmmm.
Tomorrow am, I mean three hours from now will be hectic as this is the gathering point for all the various routes that lead to,the start of the Camino's Napoleon route. We will,be out early.
Trip tic:
Distance. 17 km
Vertical rise 800 m
Time. 5.5 hours
Weather Sunny and hot, but a cool mountain wind
Distance left. 775km
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