Music has played a huge part in my life as far back as I can remember. Grew up with a mother that liked to sing and a sister who was just enough older that she had LPs and a record player. Some people associate sights, or smell, or even a memorable meal with past events. For me, it has always been music: I remember where I was the first time I heard a song, remember the music playing during some of life's bigger events, and lyrics from songs spring to mind when things happen around me. The Camino has been no different.
Day 1 where we walked up country roads to Refugio Orisson, Patty Griffins " I Went Up To the Mountain" ran round and round through my head, and on day two when we hit the highlands of the Pyrenees, I sang most of the tunes from The Sound of Music. But this morning, as hundreds of Pilgrims funnelled out of Roncesvalles heading west along a narrow path, marching in unison, couldn't stop whistling the theme to "The Bridge on the River Kwai". I'm guessing it annoyed a few people but I was in the moment.
Mary Lou and I started out without breakfast, with the aid of our flashlight and the many others before and behind us, for Burguete, a small village 4 km away where rumours swirled of a great place for breakfast. And indeed it was. Many fellow pilgrims, including The Freddy Five, stopped for cafe con leche and a variety of croissant sandwiches. Unbelievable prices, with two coffees and a ham and cheese sandwich on a croissant for $ 5.50 €. Delicious.
Once finished, off we went at a great pace. I commented to Mary Lou that " this reminds me of an old European town". She had the appropriate reply " that's likely because it is an old European town". Bazinga. We were enjoying the buildings so much, we had lost track of what we were up to, when all of a sudden I noticed that situation no pilgrim wants to see " no one in front or behind us". Ah well, only half a km to double back doing the walk of shame in front of the locals.
As it was early, the weather was cool, and with the flat terrain, we Company of Pilgrims were making good time. But "The Way" was just playing with us, making us think today's walk would be easy after the upward haul through the Pyrenees. Sure the end point in Zubiri was 400 m below the start, but there was no hint of the numerous steep ascents ( only to go back down ). And then there was the searing 33 degree heat.
Along the walk we ran into a number of our Camino friends, including Trevor and Cheryl, but spent a good deal of time with Dennis and Mark, two very friendly guys from Ireland. Dennis cracked up all the Canadians (and there are a lot of us here) when he said " I haven't been to Canada yet, but I will be going in the next two years, cause since I was a young lad I've always wanted to vacation in Manitoba". Lots of open space and cattle. Nothing against Manitoba, it is a fine Province, but it doesn't come to mind as the first place someone overseas would want to visit in our spectacular country. Told Dennis that he was going to make the blog.
Not much to say about the route, the scenery was not spectacular like the previous two days, but it was varied and we are glad that we walked that section. Our original plan was to push past Zubiri and head to Larrasoana, but with the heat and a much more difficult day than anticipated, there was no distance left to give.
Unfortunately for us, and the dozens of pilgrims after us, there was no room left in the inn. Every alberque , hotel and private home was full. We tried them all, so after a brief respite there was no choice but to push on another 5 km. Then Karma kicked in. As we headed back out of town across the bridge, we tried to tell a few other pilgrims that everything was taken ( it takes a lot of energy tracking down a spot to stay), the gentleman in front said in Spanish that he had one more room that slept two. Karma baby, life lesson. In trying to help someone else, we were the ones that were helped. The last two rooms in Zubiri. Dennis and Mark straggled in about an hour later and they managed to secure a spot on the floor in the gym. One with a mattress, and one just the floor.
ML commented on how important proper walking posture was in reducing soreness. And she is right. Now I just have to find that stance.
Overall, not an eventual day, and definitely the most physically and mentally demanding one so far. But tomorrow they say, is much easier on the road to Pamplona.
The Journey
Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Distance - 22 km
Grade difference - -400 m
Time - 5.5 hours
Weather - 33 and sunny
Distance remaining - 755 km
No comments:
Post a Comment